The journal

Notes from the counter

Seasons, suppliers and the craft of sushi — written between sittings.

The rice comes first

Why shari — seasoned, aged, body-warm — is the quiet half of every piece we serve.

What it takes to choose a single tuna among a thousand — and why we still fly to do it.

Omakase means 'I leave it to you'. Here's what you're actually handing over.

The green paste you know is rarely wasabi at all. The real thing is a different plant entirely.

How our sommelier threads thirty labels through a seventeen-course night.

We could add seats and double the covers. Here is the case for not doing it.